July 20, 2008

Living and Learning in Lucknow-Ginger

With a few more days under my belt, I feel I am staring to get adjusted to this place. I love the chaos of the streets. It never really seems to be silent here, at least not for more than a minute or so. There is never ending stream of trains passing or horns blowing, people talking, dogs barking. The city seems truly alive, a feeling that I especially appreciate at night. The streets are never empty, as many people sleep, gather, and light fires to cook along the sides. The middle of roads are often claimed by cows and stray dogs who have an equal command of the space as do the humans speeding by them. There is always a plethora of smells, not always pleasant, but always interesting to accompany what meets the eye.

Last Tuesday I returned to the elementary school, alone this time. As soon as I arrived I was greeted outside by one of the students who cheerfully exclaimed, "good morning, ma'am!" I'm not used to being called "ma'am," but in India that seems to be the norm. Once in the classroom I had the students work on a project of coloring and labeling a map of the US. I had them repeat the names of the states after me and I wrote them on the board for them to copy. It can be difficult to give clear directions since so many of the kids do not have very developed English skills. I think they did like the activity overall though, and I greatly enjoyed working with them. I am stilling planning my next lesson for this coming Tuesday.

For the past few days I have been going to SEWA, first to learn more about the organization, and secondly to begin conducting interviews. SEWA was formed in the early 1980s as a way for women to gain skills and a means of self employment without a middleman. SEWA trains artisans in making chikan, an embroidery native to Lucknow. The women then sell the products back to SEWA for a fair price, or to independent buyers of their own choosing. The idea is that the women can still do all of their normal duties at home, such as cooking, cleaning, and taking care of children while also earning income by doing some stitching on the side. This way, women have financial leverage within the family. This can serve to mitigate the pervasiveness of male domination that is a cultural norm in much of India, especially amongst the poor.

On Friday I interviewed three women about their health. The reason for this is that because the workers are poor, many of them have barriers to receiving proper care in times of need. I am aiming to determine what aspects of health are most problematic, and what potential solutions are out there. In India, only 3% of the population is insured for health care. Government hospitals exist and provide medicines and treatments at low costs, but are not always of high quality and come with the price of long waiting times. Private doctors can be very expensive, but can often deliver results in a far more timely fashion.

The women I interviewed make between 1000 and 1200 rupees per month, which is roughly 25 US dollars. Their husbands made an average of twice that amount, and all had at least 3-5 children. So far it seems that the women would love to have insurance, but can only afford to pay about 15-25 rupees per month towards the policy. The next step is to do more interviews and contact insurance companies to see how much it would cost to keep them insured. The other option is for SEWA itself to act as the insurer, collecting fees and reimbursing workers for their health care expenditures. SEWA originally tried to manage its own hospital, but this proved prohibitively expensive. Beyond having insurance, there are other things SEWA could do to improve the health of the artisans, and I am trying to gather what types of projects are most needed through interviews. Hopefully I will get some more done tomorrow, and will give an update when I have more information.

Posted by gcline at 12:57 PM | Comments (0)

July 13, 2008

First Week in Lucknow-Ginger

I arrived here in Lucknow City, India on Wednesday. Since then, I have begun to get a feel for the city and how to navigate on my own. The first major difference between here and the states that jumped out at me was the traffic. Instead of just cars, there are cows, dogs, bicycles, motorcycles, and rickshaws that compete for space on the streets. On my first day in the city, I went for what seemed like a truly hair-raising ride on an auto rickshaw from my guest house to the shopping district of Hazratganj.

My first endeavor was to buy a cellphone, which proved more difficult that I had originally anticipated. In order to get one, I needed signed copies of every page of my passport, passport photos, and a signed letter from my landlord certifying that I was indeed staying in his house. I went into the photo shop in Hazratganj dressed as an American, feeling out of place and overheated in my western attire. An hour later, I came back to pick up my passport photos dressed as a much more comfortable Indian. It turns out that I happened upon the store run by the women of SEWA-Lucknow, the very organization for whom I came to work. I bought a pink chikan suit and some other articles from nearby FabIndia.

Over the next couple of days I got to know some of the other guests in the house. Most of them are here to study Urdu, and a couple of them are doing medical research. I went with them to various coffee shops around Lucknow that provide pleasant, air conditioned places to study. Raj and Naheed, the husband and wife with whom I am staying also took me around to see the mall, golf course, and old European college of Lucknow. While at the mall, Naheed insisted in taking me to McDonald's, which was definitely an interesting experience. There was no line, but rather people pushing their way to the counter, waving money. What I found most notable was that in contrast to the American McDonald's menu, the Indian menu had a substantial vegetarian section, with a significantly smaller "non-vegetarian" section that was limited to chicken and fish. As a vegetarian myself, I found this pleasing. The veggie burger was pretty good, I must admit.

Upon my arrival I was very anxious to begin my internship with SEWA, but I found the process to be a bit slower than I had anticipated. I had some trouble contacting the CEO of the organization, as well as getting transportation to the facility. I spent a few hours reading over my files about SEWA, going over interviews that had been done in the past. Most of the workers there seemed to most desire eyeglasses and help with family planning. Naheed has agreed to translate for me as I conduct a few more needs assessments. I will go to SEWA tomorrow to begin this process.

In the mean time I had the opportunity to teach at an elementary school in a rather poor area of Lucknow, which is right near the Urdu language institute where many of my house mates are studying. At U of M, I regularly tutor school children in Detroit through my involvement with the Detroit Partnership, but I had never been given a whole class in front of which to stand up and teach, for two and half hours no less. Thankfully, I was not alone. Tiffani, a beginner Urdu student and aspiring teacher from Washington DC had worked out a plan the previous week. We (mainly Tiffani) taught the kids about where we lived in the US, went over question words (who, what, where, when, why, how), favorite songs, movies, and colors. Many of the children spoke virtually no English, so it was often difficult to convey the information. Tiffani knew a few words of Hindi, but I sadly knew hardly any at all. I think the kids really did enjoy our company, though, and they even asked us for our autographs at the end of the day.

I plan to go back to the school on Tuesday to teach another lesson, but for just one hour next time. I am nervous to go myself, especially with the language barrier. I plan to teach them about US geography and will hopefully learn a few more Hindi words before I return. I am hoping that Beth, a former teacher and Urdu student staying in the house will be able to help me put together a lesson plan. I will update more in the coming days, hopefully after making much progress with SEWA and the school!

Posted by gcline at 12:00 AM | Comments (2)

July 12, 2008

The exhaust gets exhausting... Lainie

Between the smog, dust and sewage, Delhi can be hard to swallow. This weekend I managed to escape. Right now I am sitting in the mountains, surrounded by trees(gasp!). Dhararmsala is the home to the Dalai Lama and, accordingly, a lot of Buddhist Monks. The bus ride here was frightening to say the least. There were times when I thought we were going to flop on our side..and sometimes down a mountain. I was happy, very happy to arrive safe and sound. It has been raining here the entire time, but the fresh air makes up for it all. It is amazing..food is really inexpensive, but material goods are. It is obvious that the tourist community here, that is trying to 'escape life and find themselves' is catered to, but I guess the food industry just doesnt take advantage? I havent figured that out yet. I went to the monastery today, met monks and families and took lots of pictures. The light wasnt great, but the smiles were. When I offered to send the pictures to some of the monks surprisingly (an conveniently) they gave me their email address instead of a local address. It is the digital age my friends...the monastery was full of monks on cells, handing out their email. All in all, it was quite a spiritual experience. The trip started by a sudden decision to leave Delhi. The bus was leaving in an hour and I was an hour away. All I brought was the clothes on my back, my journal and camera...It was not a choice to travel so humbly, but instead out of necesity. And it was perfect. I feel so liberated and spontaneous.

A step back to Delhi..

Before my venture into the wild I was working on various assignments with Dastkar. They have given me some great opportunites to show what I can do as well as given me a platform to showcase my work. Last week I worked with the Dastkari master tailor. After snooping through Dastkar's scrap fabribs, embroidery and other textiles, i designed a couple bags suitable for the Indian and American markets. The bags were very different from the samples that Dastkar currently holds, but were well recieved. The bags will be used as samples to show the products Dastkar can produce using the materials of the crafts people they support. The challenge was as follows: The tailor speaks no english, except colors, which I know in Hindi, haha. We managed.

Even though designing the bags was great, the day after, Thursday, was even better. My collegue, Geeta, and I visited remote sites (not even on my Delhi map!) on the outskirts of Delhi where Dastkar has producers. Words cannot describe this experience. Geeta was even speechless by the end of the day. Our first stop was to a craft group who uses scrap fabrics that are donated to them to make bags, blankets, pillow covers, etc. It is mainly patchwork using simple shapes, to make traditional designs. Unfortunately I was unable to take many photos because of the politcal situation in this area. THe governement is trying to clear this entire town because it is unauthorized and therefore illegal. Tragic and common. Most likely after relocating these people they will have no where to go. So, they will live somewhere else, illegally. I dont understand why there isnt a better solution.

Craft Group #2: This particular group uses waste products as well- mainly textiles and newspapers. The inspiring part of this one is, however, that the woman who opened this group, started an orphanage at the same time. So, on this piece of land, where the road ends, after traveling in swampy, trash filled mud streets you reach a haven for women and children. The women come to the center to collect matierals to take home and work on. This was they are able to take care of their own children and earn money of their own, which for many of them is put into their PERSONAL bank accounts. In addition, they learn various skills, as do the children at this orphanage. Children are allowed to stay there until the age of 18 and other children from the village visit the locale to learn how to make crafts. In the orphanage the children learn how to make cratfs which can support them once they leave, should they decide that is what they would like to do. So, by giving these underprivalged children a creative outlet, they also are giving them a skill. If they want to work in addition to going to school, they are not allowed to until age 16 because they must instead focus on their studies. The supervisors for the entire project are young adults who grew up in the orphanage. The few that I met were so very poised and driven. I could see in the sincerity of their eyes the effects this place had on them.

#3: Imagine: Wheel thrown pots, 8 feet tall, and perfectly round. Our final destination was to a master craftsman's home. He has won awards from the Indian government for his talent and has sold his pieces all over the world. The pictures speak more than these words ever will.

And this is where I ended before escaping to a greener place.

Still to come: Ranthambhore, Rajastan- Home to a world renowned tiger reserve and Dastkari craft group.

Posted by lkkokas at 06:10 AM | Comments (1)

July 09, 2008

Delhi & the Taj- Lainie Kokas

Delhi is slowly becoming my home. I can navigate it, more or less without getting ripped off, walk about with confidence and gracefully handle the extreme heat/smells/sound- at least I like to imagine so. What started as two isolated islands one being my home in North Delhi and the second, my place of work with Dastkar, is quickly expanding into pockets of familiar landscapes and cityscapes…I imagine this is all a result of electing public transportation instead of a private car. I now experience Delhi, instead of just seeing it- it’s beauty and turmoil.

My internship with Dastkar got off to a slow start, however, the most important things are being accomplished- I am learning and am excited about my work. As of now most of my work has been designing pamphlets and posters various crafts groups that Dastkar works with. This, of course, has required a lot research into the organization as a whole and further into the particular groups. There have been challenges a lot the way such as the limited photographs I have to use and even fewer with good quality, only having Photoshop when InDesign is needed as well, and maneuvering between a craft vernacular, British English and writing for the general public. I am anxious for this next week to start because my assignments will be more hands on and I will be meeting with Dastkar that exists outside of the office. As if now the plans include:
1. Visiting a crafts group in Ranthambhore, Rajastan that has been helped tremendously by Dastkar and is almost entirely self-sufficient.
2. Visit other crafts groups in the Delhi area
3. Spend a couple days with Dastkar’s master weaver
4. Visit shops in Delhi who carry Dastkari products

Taj Mahal:
Last weekend I went to Agra to vist the Taj Mahal. Getting there was like a safari ride! Aside from seeing the norm- cows and dogs- on the street, there was a major influx of animal life, street side. I was excited when we saw a camel, but that was only the beginning- camels, pigs, buffalo, elephants! and monkeys! It was exciting to see them, but a bit sad.

The Taj was beautiful, but I couldn’t get past the thousands of people and rain. It was a Sunday, so there were more visitors than usual. It was exactly what I expected, in all of it’s glory. I am glad that I had the opportunity to see it.

Posted by lkkokas at 04:25 AM | Comments (0)

July 01, 2008

Week One- Lainie

After some internet connection issues, power outage issues and formatting issues, I am finally able to post my first experiences and thoughts on this crazy and delicious place....


Well, I have been here for a week...and love it. There have been challenges, but nothing unmanageable and for some reason they seem to be less of a burden here, or perhaps they are just constantly put into perspective. This past week has included, some light work with Dastkar, a lot of eating, shopping, exploring Delhi, learning basic Hindi and going to the Taj Mahal!!

I am living with my friend Theresa (from Michigan) and a Punjabi family that she has become very close with over the past year here in Delhi. This is Theresa's fourth trip back to India since receiving the same grant that I have for this summer. Pretty crazy. So, I am here with her, Kavita Auntie and her son, Puneet. They are lovely, kind people. I feel so fortunate to be welcomed into their homes. There is nothing that I can complain about, except for someone caring TOO much for me. I am cooked delicious homemade Indian meals whenever I am home, get to ask all of the uncomfortable questions that one might encounter in such a foreign place and always have someone looking out for me. In all honesty though, Delhi can be a tough place if you don't have someone to show you the ropes first.

Delhi...where to begin. Size. It is big!! We live in north Delhi and I work in south Delhi, which can be an hour to two-hour commute. There is always something or someone to watch (or smell) outside, so the ride is never boring. One thing is true, life in India can be very difficult, especially if you are not well off. It's a constant struggle to not let seeing so much poverty get me down, while still maintaining a level of consciousness about it so that I am never blind to the fact that it exists, nor do I feel like I cannot help. The challenge is that there are so many Delhites who are barely making it by and helping is more difficult than I had imagined. For example, I went the Indian Habitat Centre which was featuring a photography exhibition on street children. The life that these children live at such a young age is heart wrenching. Many are addicted to smelling solvents, while others are forced to give their earnings from begging to older children. I try to carry extra food with me, but do not always manage to.

Driving.is.very.scary! I think I would pull over and start crying if I had to drive in this city. Not only is it congested, but you never know from which way another car, auto rickshaw, cyclist or pedestrian is coming! I am still not convinced that people actually drive on the left side of the street. I suppose because there are so many people all over, sometimes you just have to go the wrong way down the street! Getting around is hard because I are constantly being ripped off because it is obvious that I am foreign. Fortunately Puneet, Theresa or Kavita Auntie have been there with me for the first few days, so I am starting to understand the system. Nevertheless, I have just stopped paying attention to the road while driving and have been concentrating on capturing the bigger picture- what is really happening in Delhi.

Food. It is really delicious and starchy- chipati, roti, parantha, naan, dosa, samosa, peas, corn, and potatoes. Of course I eat other things, but those are all of the starches that comprise my average meals. I really like the food though, a lot. I have asked Kavita Auntie to teach me how to cook Indian dishes. She and I are both elated by the idea. So far, I have learned the proper way to cook roti (not the dough, just the stove top part). Im not sure if I like north Indian food or south Indian food better, but I know for sure that I like Moghuli food the least, which I ate with in Agra (Taj).

Clothes. So far, I have bought a lot of clothes. It is challenging not to because A) not many people wear western clothes B) I am trying to look a bit professional for my job and C) beautiful, colorful, tailor made clothes are so inexpensive! The other day went to about 5 stores to find the perfect fabric combination for suit pants 'pajamis', suit top, and scarf. The tricky part was that with each bundle of three different fabrics I never knew what wonders the inner two fabrics held. Sometimes the pajami would be a simple white while other times they would be multi color polka dots of all sizes, clashing, or complimenting the fabric for the top. Of course you had to buy them as a set. As the store clerk threw down the fabrics it was a mirage of colors and a great surprise. The thing that I don't get though is that almost all men wear western clothes.

Senses. India is definitely a place that requires me to use all of my senses. The scents of lavender, curry, mango, cow dung and the most commonly -sewage- flood the street. ....And so, I journey down the street through a mystical haze of smog in an auto rickshaw driver, while he blows his horn and listens to the song (literally, song) of trucks honking their 'horns' and finally as I get down I hop over a puddle and trash, splashing some on my new white pants, and I must remember to listen for if I don't I will...1- over pay for my ride and 2- get nipped by a passerby. Then a child smiles at me and blushes when I notice them staring at my light skin and hair. I can feel the rain coming, so I should head in for some chai... Tomorrow, as does everyday, requires patience and love.

Posted by lkkokas at 10:57 AM | Comments (0)

June 21, 2008

pre-departure nerves-Lainie

I am leaving for Delhi tomorrow and I am pretty nervous right now. Usually I am calm and collected before a new adventure, but this one is a bit different. I think it is because of how much I have heard about India, but how little of the culture I have experienced. All of this aside, I cannot wait. I know I am about to embark on the trip of a lifetime. Thank you once again CSAS for giving me this opportunity.

...until Delhi...

Posted by lkkokas at 11:38 PM | Comments (0)

Project Abstract- Lainie

Dastkar utilizes modern day grass-roots development to empower women across the country to be self-sustaining through the production traditional crafts. Over my stay with Dastkar I will use my artistic background to work directly with artisans and Dastkar to strengthen product development by incorporating their traditional Indian skills and motifs with contemporary design. My work will take place in New Delhi along with trips into the field to further my understanding of the production and culture behind each art form. I will document my findings photographically in the form of a photo journal to visually demonstrate the efficiency of Dastkar’s development and sustainability, all of which will play an integral part in my senior project, examining the magnitude of local development through the arts to empower and economically stabilize communities.

Posted by lkkokas at 11:38 PM | Comments (0)