CSAS Summer in South Asia 2008

July 24, 2008

Winding Down- Lainie

Since then I have been finishing up some of my duties with Dastkar- organizing photos and writing- and now I am getting ready for me next project. I want to thank CSAS and Dastkar for giving me an incredible month in India. I, of course, had my ups and downs, but the outcome of it all has put me on top of the world. The extraordinary combination of the two organizations offered me so many unthinkable opportunities to grow as a student, artist, humanitarian, and citizen of the world. I know approach life differently, focusing on what really matters. I put life into perspective not just in the life that I am used to, but in a greater scheme of the world. I appreciate what I have and understand what I need and what is extraneous. I want to commit myself to fulfilling the basic needs of others who have, by birth place and unfortunate social order, not been given enough opportunities to live with securities that everyone deserves. I don’t complain about the heat because I know that it is only temporary for me, when it is a lifestyle for others. I demand to be charged a fair price for services before hand and overpay in the end because I am able to help that little bit (and not feel like I am being taken advantage of). I have learned to find stillness within myself even when the world around me is hungry and tired. This month flew by and felt like an eternity. I am so pleased with the results and will avidly seek other similar opportunities to continue this high on life adventure that I have come to enjoy and flourish in.

Posted by lkkokas at 07:50 AM | Comments (0)

July 20, 2008

One Last Hurrah-Lainie

14 June-18 June
Three Days to remember, actually more like 5.

After a crazy day starting with an early morning arrival in Delhi, I left for Ranthambhore. The preceding days set the pace for my travels in Ranthambhore- slow, fast, slow, run like hell!
The train from Dharamsala was all but calm. It started with torrential downpour as we wound through the mountains and ended with our questionably drunk bus driver honking more like a train than a bus. The long drawn out sound was hard on the ears and the entire body because it was accompanied with a sudden halt that either slid me off of my declining seat or flung me into the air.
We rushed back to the house in North Delhi allotting me just enough time to shower and pact before the next excursion. As I was about to leave the house to start my hectic day my Auntie was outraged that I was going alone and insisted that someone accompany me. At this point all I could think was how my day included a trip to an East Delhi village (I now know it to also be a slum), then South Delhi to stop at Dastkar and lastly the train station in central Delhi, so I had to leave. Auntie sent me with someone from her work and we were off. Dennis spoke no English and was especially shy.
When we got off the metro in Seelampur I noticed the differences…I was not in ‘Delhi’ anymore, the Delhi that I am accustomed to. There were very few women on the streets and those that were wore burkas. I was terrified. Eyes pierced my skin like never before. Instead of smiles I felt sneers. Our auto finally arrived in the middle of a street because it was too narrow to continue. The auto driver pointed me in the right direction, Dennis followed. I almost turned around, but something made me press on. Half way down the street I found Mohammad. He greeted me a with a welcoming smile and I felt safe. That’s the thing about India- one second you think you may be killed and the next someone wants you to marry their brother.
My train to Ranthambhore was lovely. I was of course a bit nervous because of the warnings that Kavita Auntie and Punnu gave me, but I was ready. I sat by a group of fat business men, a young man from Mumbai and a British girl. Sajan, Marie and I had a great time. We talked about our travels and compared our countries. The journey was relaxing and then I jumped off the train into darkness. The shadows of the train station only highlighted the fear in my eyes. Beatles in the millions blackened the sidewalk with their shells and guts. If anything, they added to the melodrama of this moment in time. I had no idea where to go or who to look for, so, naturally, I pretended that I did. Thankfully I went in the right direction and thankfully someone from Dastkar was there with my name on a sign. Then we drove to paradise.

16 July 08 (journal excerpt) Dev Vilas Hotel:
This hotel is amazing. Before going to bed every night I am asked my morning agenda including when I would like a wake-up call and what time I will be having breakfast. Two minutes after my wake-up call tea is delivered to my room for my enjoyment while dressing. At breakfast I am asked what I would like to eat, which is always accompanied by fresh fruit and juice. I have at least 3 people waiting on me while eating. Anything that I want, I am served, as long as I ask. It is crazy. My breakfast table sits just inside the window, with the view of a little bird family sitting in a little tree. After breakfast I am picked up and then I go to work. Upon returning home my room has been made up, AC is on and I am asked when I would like dinner. Dinner includes chipati, rice, pasta, paneer, dal, and 2 veggie dishes...incredible. Last night I had ice cream with chocolate sauce for dessert, I wasn’t feeling too great, so it really helped. Then my bed is turned down for me and it starts again the next day.

Day 1 of 3: Dastkar Ranthambhore
• Interview of Dastkar Ranthambhore Executive Director, Ujwala
o Discussed goals and objectives for my stay
o History and current story of Dast. Ranth.
• Photographs of women while working
• Picnic with Ujwala and her friends
When Ujwala asked me if I wanted to go on a picnic, I never expected it to be like this. We drove for about an hour deep into the jungle. Ranthambhore is known for their national park, so we drove to the periphery of the reserve where we went swimming in crocodile infested waters. Well, that’s what the joke was. The locals that were swimming when we arrived said the water was safe. Either way, I was nervous.

Day 2 of 3:
• Visits to local villages to visit artisans
o Black Potters
o Leather workers
• Feeding of pet elephant in hotel
Pawan Kali, the resident elephant, is 65 years old and was the dowry of the hotel owner, an elephant!! I fed it chipati and bananas. It was a good reminder of how small I am, even though I am in a country where I often feel like a female giant.

Day 3 of 3:
• Photography of product
• 1st motorcycle ride to visit the Dastkari store in town

Now here I am, on a train back to Delhi. I will hopefully make it there. My main concern is that this is not my train…

I was dropped at the station with plenty of time to spare. I saw my train number, waited at the platform and then noticed a scuffle after an announcement. A man that I was standing near knew I was going to Delhi and directed me to another platform. I listened for more announcements heard Delhi and the platform number and switched...crossing the tracks with my bag (another 1st). When the train finally came, about an hour late, I kept explaining to people that I was in B coach, but they kept directing me to D. Finally, after stating my case for the 5th time, I got on. As the train pulled away a conductor looked at my ticket and told me that I missed my train. I knew that was impossible, so I was quickly irritated. Then I met the conductor who I will forever be thankful for. There are some people who save you. They may or may not understand it, but he was one. I sit here and watch him sip his coffee, silently praising him for not kicking me off of the train. I cannot think about where I would be sitting now or what I would be doing if it weren’t for his kindness. I just hope to God that I get back to Delhi and not somewhere else in India.

The ride actually ended up being quite pleasant. The dull murmur of fans in the !GASP! non-A/C coach soothed my nerves and the scent of outdoors relaxed me. Half way through the trip a young boy sat two seats down from me. You could tell that he was very curious about where I came from and what I was like. At the age of 9, curiosity always gets the best of you. Whenever I looked over at him his stare quickly shifted from me, forward. So, I said “Hello”. For the next two hours we chatted and played games. The time that I had originally set aside to catch up on my sleep from an early awakening, was much better spent sharing cultures with this little boy.

During our conversation we spoke mainly about our favorite everythings. It seemed like the most suitable conversation for us to have and allowed us both to understand one another. His English was by no means perfect but we communicated just fine with the help of some others around who he would run to for a quick vocabulary check whenever he stumbled over his words. His favorite colour is red, favorite sport is cricket, favorite super hero- superman, favorite country-China, favourite subject- English, etc., etc. I forgot how much fun it can be to talk about your favorite things (Julie Andrews was on to something). Mid way through another little body plopped itself down, right next to me. No wiggle room, practically on my lap- Desh’s sister, Ria. At 7 years she was quite energetic and appropriately, playful. She liked asking me about my favourite foods. Mainly whether or not I like sweets and which ones. At one point I told them that I had never played cricket, nor had I ever seen a match. Their jaws dropped. The thought of a life without cricket seemed to unfathomable and cruel. Following the startling news I decided to teach them colors in Spanish. It was fun because we both already new them in English and Hindi, so I thought it best to teach them something new. We only got past about 3 colors before they were running around asking their family if they new what the words meant, but it was great fun.

Their mother, who didn’t speak English, was visibly grateful that I was entertaining her children during the long ride to Delhi. She kept giving me fruit and sending loving smiles my way. When I told Ria that I did not want any mango, coconut or papaya, she begged and pleaded. It proved to me that children on the street who beg, beg like all other children and that the annoying yet irresistible sound of a child’s voice pleading is hard to ignore. I had to be firm. Dhiarria (sp?) on a train is NOT ideal. So instead, we played games. She sang and I followed her hand motions. I could not understand her songs, but she tried her best to explain them to me. I felt like a little girl again, laughing my butt off as she tickled my stomach at the end of each song.

Although the other train would have been more comfortable, this was an experience that I will carry in my pocket along with tunes of hand games running through my mind. I ended up making it back to Delhi, a little late, but content, until I felt the killer heat and pollution.

Posted by lkkokas at 11:49 PM | Comments (0)

July 12, 2008

The exhaust gets exhausting... Lainie

Between the smog, dust and sewage, Delhi can be hard to swallow. This weekend I managed to escape. Right now I am sitting in the mountains, surrounded by trees(gasp!). Dhararmsala is the home to the Dalai Lama and, accordingly, a lot of Buddhist Monks. The bus ride here was frightening to say the least. There were times when I thought we were going to flop on our side..and sometimes down a mountain. I was happy, very happy to arrive safe and sound. It has been raining here the entire time, but the fresh air makes up for it all. It is amazing..food is really inexpensive, but material goods are. It is obvious that the tourist community here, that is trying to 'escape life and find themselves' is catered to, but I guess the food industry just doesnt take advantage? I havent figured that out yet. I went to the monastery today, met monks and families and took lots of pictures. The light wasnt great, but the smiles were. When I offered to send the pictures to some of the monks surprisingly (an conveniently) they gave me their email address instead of a local address. It is the digital age my friends...the monastery was full of monks on cells, handing out their email. All in all, it was quite a spiritual experience. The trip started by a sudden decision to leave Delhi. The bus was leaving in an hour and I was an hour away. All I brought was the clothes on my back, my journal and camera...It was not a choice to travel so humbly, but instead out of necesity. And it was perfect. I feel so liberated and spontaneous.

A step back to Delhi..

Before my venture into the wild I was working on various assignments with Dastkar. They have given me some great opportunites to show what I can do as well as given me a platform to showcase my work. Last week I worked with the Dastkari master tailor. After snooping through Dastkar's scrap fabribs, embroidery and other textiles, i designed a couple bags suitable for the Indian and American markets. The bags were very different from the samples that Dastkar currently holds, but were well recieved. The bags will be used as samples to show the products Dastkar can produce using the materials of the crafts people they support. The challenge was as follows: The tailor speaks no english, except colors, which I know in Hindi, haha. We managed.

Even though designing the bags was great, the day after, Thursday, was even better. My collegue, Geeta, and I visited remote sites (not even on my Delhi map!) on the outskirts of Delhi where Dastkar has producers. Words cannot describe this experience. Geeta was even speechless by the end of the day. Our first stop was to a craft group who uses scrap fabrics that are donated to them to make bags, blankets, pillow covers, etc. It is mainly patchwork using simple shapes, to make traditional designs. Unfortunately I was unable to take many photos because of the politcal situation in this area. THe governement is trying to clear this entire town because it is unauthorized and therefore illegal. Tragic and common. Most likely after relocating these people they will have no where to go. So, they will live somewhere else, illegally. I dont understand why there isnt a better solution.

Craft Group #2: This particular group uses waste products as well- mainly textiles and newspapers. The inspiring part of this one is, however, that the woman who opened this group, started an orphanage at the same time. So, on this piece of land, where the road ends, after traveling in swampy, trash filled mud streets you reach a haven for women and children. The women come to the center to collect matierals to take home and work on. This was they are able to take care of their own children and earn money of their own, which for many of them is put into their PERSONAL bank accounts. In addition, they learn various skills, as do the children at this orphanage. Children are allowed to stay there until the age of 18 and other children from the village visit the locale to learn how to make crafts. In the orphanage the children learn how to make cratfs which can support them once they leave, should they decide that is what they would like to do. So, by giving these underprivalged children a creative outlet, they also are giving them a skill. If they want to work in addition to going to school, they are not allowed to until age 16 because they must instead focus on their studies. The supervisors for the entire project are young adults who grew up in the orphanage. The few that I met were so very poised and driven. I could see in the sincerity of their eyes the effects this place had on them.

#3: Imagine: Wheel thrown pots, 8 feet tall, and perfectly round. Our final destination was to a master craftsman's home. He has won awards from the Indian government for his talent and has sold his pieces all over the world. The pictures speak more than these words ever will.

And this is where I ended before escaping to a greener place.

Still to come: Ranthambhore, Rajastan- Home to a world renowned tiger reserve and Dastkari craft group.

Posted by lkkokas at 06:10 AM | Comments (1)

July 09, 2008

Delhi & the Taj- Lainie Kokas

Delhi is slowly becoming my home. I can navigate it, more or less without getting ripped off, walk about with confidence and gracefully handle the extreme heat/smells/sound- at least I like to imagine so. What started as two isolated islands one being my home in North Delhi and the second, my place of work with Dastkar, is quickly expanding into pockets of familiar landscapes and cityscapes…I imagine this is all a result of electing public transportation instead of a private car. I now experience Delhi, instead of just seeing it- it’s beauty and turmoil.

My internship with Dastkar got off to a slow start, however, the most important things are being accomplished- I am learning and am excited about my work. As of now most of my work has been designing pamphlets and posters various crafts groups that Dastkar works with. This, of course, has required a lot research into the organization as a whole and further into the particular groups. There have been challenges a lot the way such as the limited photographs I have to use and even fewer with good quality, only having Photoshop when InDesign is needed as well, and maneuvering between a craft vernacular, British English and writing for the general public. I am anxious for this next week to start because my assignments will be more hands on and I will be meeting with Dastkar that exists outside of the office. As if now the plans include:
1. Visiting a crafts group in Ranthambhore, Rajastan that has been helped tremendously by Dastkar and is almost entirely self-sufficient.
2. Visit other crafts groups in the Delhi area
3. Spend a couple days with Dastkar’s master weaver
4. Visit shops in Delhi who carry Dastkari products

Taj Mahal:
Last weekend I went to Agra to vist the Taj Mahal. Getting there was like a safari ride! Aside from seeing the norm- cows and dogs- on the street, there was a major influx of animal life, street side. I was excited when we saw a camel, but that was only the beginning- camels, pigs, buffalo, elephants! and monkeys! It was exciting to see them, but a bit sad.

The Taj was beautiful, but I couldn’t get past the thousands of people and rain. It was a Sunday, so there were more visitors than usual. It was exactly what I expected, in all of it’s glory. I am glad that I had the opportunity to see it.

Posted by lkkokas at 04:25 AM | Comments (0)

July 01, 2008

Week One- Lainie

After some internet connection issues, power outage issues and formatting issues, I am finally able to post my first experiences and thoughts on this crazy and delicious place....

Well, I have been here for a week...and love it. There have been challenges, but nothing unmanageable and for some reason they seem to be less of a burden here, or perhaps they are just constantly put into perspective. This past week has included, some light work with Dastkar, a lot of eating, shopping, exploring Delhi, learning basic Hindi and going to the Taj Mahal!!

I am living with my friend Theresa (from Michigan) and a Punjabi family that she has become very close with over the past year here in Delhi. This is Theresa's fourth trip back to India since receiving the same grant that I have for this summer. Pretty crazy. So, I am here with her, Kavita Auntie and her son, Puneet. They are lovely, kind people. I feel so fortunate to be welcomed into their homes. There is nothing that I can complain about, except for someone caring TOO much for me. I am cooked delicious homemade Indian meals whenever I am home, get to ask all of the uncomfortable questions that one might encounter in such a foreign place and always have someone looking out for me. In all honesty though, Delhi can be a tough place if you don't have someone to show you the ropes first.

Delhi...where to begin. Size. It is big!! We live in north Delhi and I work in south Delhi, which can be an hour to two-hour commute. There is always something or someone to watch (or smell) outside, so the ride is never boring. One thing is true, life in India can be very difficult, especially if you are not well off. It's a constant struggle to not let seeing so much poverty get me down, while still maintaining a level of consciousness about it so that I am never blind to the fact that it exists, nor do I feel like I cannot help. The challenge is that there are so many Delhites who are barely making it by and helping is more difficult than I had imagined. For example, I went the Indian Habitat Centre which was featuring a photography exhibition on street children. The life that these children live at such a young age is heart wrenching. Many are addicted to smelling solvents, while others are forced to give their earnings from begging to older children. I try to carry extra food with me, but do not always manage to.

Driving.is.very.scary! I think I would pull over and start crying if I had to drive in this city. Not only is it congested, but you never know from which way another car, auto rickshaw, cyclist or pedestrian is coming! I am still not convinced that people actually drive on the left side of the street. I suppose because there are so many people all over, sometimes you just have to go the wrong way down the street! Getting around is hard because I are constantly being ripped off because it is obvious that I am foreign. Fortunately Puneet, Theresa or Kavita Auntie have been there with me for the first few days, so I am starting to understand the system. Nevertheless, I have just stopped paying attention to the road while driving and have been concentrating on capturing the bigger picture- what is really happening in Delhi.

Food. It is really delicious and starchy- chipati, roti, parantha, naan, dosa, samosa, peas, corn, and potatoes. Of course I eat other things, but those are all of the starches that comprise my average meals. I really like the food though, a lot. I have asked Kavita Auntie to teach me how to cook Indian dishes. She and I are both elated by the idea. So far, I have learned the proper way to cook roti (not the dough, just the stove top part). Im not sure if I like north Indian food or south Indian food better, but I know for sure that I like Moghuli food the least, which I ate with in Agra (Taj).

Clothes. So far, I have bought a lot of clothes. It is challenging not to because A) not many people wear western clothes B) I am trying to look a bit professional for my job and C) beautiful, colorful, tailor made clothes are so inexpensive! The other day went to about 5 stores to find the perfect fabric combination for suit pants 'pajamis', suit top, and scarf. The tricky part was that with each bundle of three different fabrics I never knew what wonders the inner two fabrics held. Sometimes the pajami would be a simple white while other times they would be multi color polka dots of all sizes, clashing, or complimenting the fabric for the top. Of course you had to buy them as a set. As the store clerk threw down the fabrics it was a mirage of colors and a great surprise. The thing that I don't get though is that almost all men wear western clothes.

Senses. India is definitely a place that requires me to use all of my senses. The scents of lavender, curry, mango, cow dung and the most commonly -sewage- flood the street. ....And so, I journey down the street through a mystical haze of smog in an auto rickshaw driver, while he blows his horn and listens to the song (literally, song) of trucks honking their 'horns' and finally as I get down I hop over a puddle and trash, splashing some on my new white pants, and I must remember to listen for if I don't I will...1- over pay for my ride and 2- get nipped by a passerby. Then a child smiles at me and blushes when I notice them staring at my light skin and hair. I can feel the rain coming, so I should head in for some chai... Tomorrow, as does everyday, requires patience and love.

Posted by lkkokas at 10:57 AM | Comments (1)

June 21, 2008

pre-departure nerves-Lainie

I am leaving for Delhi tomorrow and I am pretty nervous right now. Usually I am calm and collected before a new adventure, but this one is a bit different. I think it is because of how much I have heard about India, but how little of the culture I have experienced. All of this aside, I cannot wait. I know I am about to embark on the trip of a lifetime. Thank you once again CSAS for giving me this opportunity.

...until Delhi...

Posted by lkkokas at 11:38 PM | Comments (0)

Project Abstract- Lainie

Dastkar utilizes modern day grass-roots development to empower women across the country to be self-sustaining through the production traditional crafts. Over my stay with Dastkar I will use my artistic background to work directly with artisans and Dastkar to strengthen product development by incorporating their traditional Indian skills and motifs with contemporary design. My work will take place in New Delhi along with trips into the field to further my understanding of the production and culture behind each art form. I will document my findings photographically in the form of a photo journal to visually demonstrate the efficiency of Dastkar’s development and sustainability, all of which will play an integral part in my senior project, examining the magnitude of local development through the arts to empower and economically stabilize communities.

Posted by lkkokas at 11:38 PM | Comments (0)